When checking wheel bearings, wiggle the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock or 2 and 7 o’clock. Excessive play indicates a problem. If you hear a noise while driving and it changes when you swerve, it could be an axle bearing, wheel bearing, or tire. To differentiate, change road surfaces. If the noise changes, it’s the tire; if not, it’s a bearing.
You can use a stethoscope on a lifted car to listen for growling from the bearing while spinning the wheel, or a dial indicator to check for run-out. Worn bearings sound grindy, new ones are quiet.
To replace a sealed wheel bearing, hold the wheel, crack the axle nut loose (it’s heavily torqued), remove the caliper bolts and bracket, and then the hub bolts. Tap the hub if it’s stuck. When reassembling, follow torque specifications (e.g., 328 Nm or 242 ft-lbs) and replace the axle nut for safety.
Tapered wheel bearings, often seen on hubbed rotors, have inner and outer bearings, grease seals, and races. They are typically packed with grease using a bearing packer or by hand.
Gen 1 bearings can be complex and may require a press assembly. Be careful and ensure everything is level when pressing them out. Use a hydraulic press and watch the gauge as high tension can be dangerous.
Technician A’s suggestion of over 100 ft-lbs is generally too low; manufacturer specifications are always the correct answer.
Wheel Bearings
